February 16, 2010
Jalan dengan pemandangan terindah di dunia
You can drive two of the world’s most scenic roads – in two days, in Oregon.
Oregon is a state that has everything California and Washington
states have – ocean, rainforests, mountains and flower displays – but
feels somehow cozier and more user-friendly, perhaps due to the more
laid-back attitude of those who live there.
It takes guts to live under the shadow of the most active volcano in the Pacific Northwest (
info)
and on top of a dozen wicked earthquake faults (each similar to the one
that just terrorized China). But it also takes a certain appreciation
and disposition to enjoy the beauty while it lasts – to “smell the
roses”, so plentiful in Portland and area.
Last week I had the privilege to drive the Oregon state’s two most
beautiful roads – easily among the most beautiful roads in the world, at
the best time to visit them: late spring, when the weather (sometimes)
is very good, everything blooms and the crowds are non-existent.
“Bridge to Terabithia” screenshot, Walt Disney Pictures, site
Let’s start with:
Columbia Gorge Historic Highway 30
If you’ve seen the movie “Bridge to Terabithia”, you might remember
how the magic kingdom of Terabithia looks: a wondrous mountain river
gorge, framed by the mighty waterfalls, a river leisurely flowing toward
the distant ocean. Well, you might be surprised to discover that a part
of Columbia Gorge (from Hood River to Troutdale) almost fits the above
description.
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If you coming to Portland from the east, you can stay overnight in the Dalles (home of the mysterious Google “server
farms”
– and hit the north side of the gorge in the morning (passing the
quaint windy town of Stevenson, WA – and perhaps even hiking to the top
of the Beacon Rock. The hike is surprisingly doable, considering how
imposing it looks). The transition from high desert to temperate
rainforests is nothing short of
epic. Every single mile brings a change in eco-systems and vegetation.
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The drive through the Columbia Gorge wine country is relaxing,
perhaps too much so (make arrangements to visit some wineries). But
don’t allow yourself to get sidetracked – your adventure is only
starting.
(image credit: Thad Roan)
The best part of the drive starts at the
Bridge of the Gods (interesting enough to be included into our “Hall of Fame” of
bridges)
– make sure to cross the river to the Oregon side again and continue
west on the interstate, until you come to the Historic Highway 30
turnoff.
The Biggest Concentration of Waterfalls
…awaits you on that winding, enchanting piece of road (once
considered a pinnacle of road engineering). Every waterfall is unique,
imposing and simply serene (no picture can ever give them justice, even
though there are plenty of
Multnomah Fallspostcards
going around). Each waterfall sits in the lush forest amphitheater,
surrounded by gigantic cliffs and fanciful eroded stone.
Horsetail Waterfall & Shepperd’s Dell rocks
Note how the spread of lichen on the right also “emulates” waterfall…
Multnomah Falls is the second-tallest waterfall in the nation
(Yosemite Falls in California is the tallest) – with undeniable artistic
(almost Old World) charm:
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Spring is the best time to visit, to avoid crowds and to catch the
brilliant-fresh vegetation. Be prepared to be greeted by the “Tunnel of
Trees”:
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The Historic Columbia River Highway was built in 1913-1922 with
multitude of bridges over the dizzying chasms. Over the years it was
often called “The King of Roads”:
Shepperd’s Dell falls
The Mitchell’s Point Tunnel and Hercules Pillars, source
A quiet forest walk to the Latourell Falls is the perfect medicine against modern day stress.
Latourell Falls with curious eroded rock formations
Don’t miss the classic
“Crown Point” where countless tourists take pictures of the same view over and over again. It is definitely an awesome view, though.
Once you’ve driven the stretch to nice little town of Corbett, you
have a choice either to continue on to Portland, or embark on another
scenic drive – around Mount Hood (where the famous
Timberline Lodge stands – the eternally spooky location of “The Shining” movie fame)
If you come to Portland, be sure to wear some flowers in your hair
It seems Portland (the official dwelling place of book, coffee, craft
beer & outdoors fanatics) blooms like there is no tomorrow, in
these early days of May. Some of the flower-scapes are from the
world-class Japanese Gardens, but others are… just because:
Portland’s Japanese Gardens:
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A great way to explore Portland (which has a very compact and walkable downtown core) is to get on the
Max Light Rail…
but again, don’t let the urban pleasures to swallow you up (it’s
awfully hard to tear yourself from this friendly and sophisticated city –
though I admit, I did not check out San Francisco yet)
Get going to the Oregon Coast (touristy, but still great Cannon
Beach). In less than a couple of hours you will be gazing on the
enormous Haystack Rock and wonder how many tentacles
anemones have. Again, the middle of May is great time to escape the crowds that descend there during summer.
(on the left is yours truly; on the right is 1940 Oregon Coast Tour)
Don’t leave without checking out the mind-blowing
Ecola State Park – and head along Hwy.101 to Tillamook – and the next “Most Beautiful Road in the World”:
Three Capes Scenic Route, Oregon Coast
Here is a comparatively little-known Oregon Coast gem, off the main
highway – an area where locals themselves go to unwind and get quality
beach time. You can drive the whole loop in a few hours, or you can
spend a week there – this is a quintessential Pacific Coast experience.
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Ahhh… this is the life: a rare (admit it) sunshine spring day on the
Oregon Coast, when after days of mysterious but still pretty annoying
fog (or more gracefully “mist”) the mountains and various off-shore
rocks are coming into view – and the ocean asserts its magnificent
presence.
First off, I have to warn you: the road from Cape Meares village (no
services) to the Cape Meares Lighthouse is so full of potholes, that
even animals might break a leg there. So drive carefully, it gets much
better from there. Here is mile-by-mile
infoabout this route.
The Lighthouse is quaint (built in 1890) and a bit on a smallish scale – but worth checking out:
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The road will take you to three capes (with three distinct views to enjoy) – Cape Meares, Cape Lookout and Cape Kiwanda:
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Ocean is such a huge, non-negotiable presence that any troubles or
worries you might have swiftly shrink and run away (I do wonder how any
business is done at all at such locations). The forest around the ocean
beaches is unbelievably green, lush and soothing:
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You will also pass sand dunes (no need to go all the way to
Florence, Oregon, for that):
Added Bonus: Drive your car into the ocean
Sometimes called McPhillips beach, this is Cape Kiwanda
nirvana+paradise. Happy cars frolic in shallow waters on the sandy
beach, happy surfers happily surf – you get the idea. The beach features
another “haystack”-kind of huge rock (just for added visual interest)
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Continue on along the Oregon Coast – there are endless wonders and
fresh vista to delight and astound, literally at every turn. In the next
parts of this series we will feature most scenic roads in Canada, Asia,
Europe, etc.
(image credit: 1940 Oregon Coast Tour)
6 komentar:
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